8 min read
A Bowl of Tomato Bread Soup
Save the heel of a loaf for a tomato soup that gets its texture from bread, olive oil, and a few minutes of patient stirring.
From market to table.
Recipes, ingredients, and the craft of cooking.
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A Better Pan of Roasted Carrots
A tray of carrots, a bowl of yogurt, and a close look at the small decisions that make a vegetable worth building dinner around.
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A Dinner of Braised Leeks
Brown leeks on their flat sides, braise until silky, and finish with mustard vinaigrette and hazelnuts for a vegetable that can hold the center of a plate.
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A Pan of Green Beans
Steam the beans under a lid, finish them on bare metal, and bring them to the table with a spoonful of shallot vinegar.
Baking
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The Focaccia Clock
Two schedules for the same olive oil dough, with a baker's guide to the bubbles, folds, and dimple marks that tell you when it is ready.
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An Apple Crumble for Two
Two apples, a shallow dish, and a rough oat topping are enough for a crumble with a bubbling edge and a properly cooked middle.
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An Evening Coffee Cake
A cinnamon crumb cake to slice after dinner or the next morning, with a reliable way to judge the center under the topping.
Ingredients
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Buying Tomatoes by Touch
How to choose a tomato for the meal you actually plan to cook, from a soft salad slicer to a firm fruit for the end of the week.
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A Bag of Red Lentils
What to do with one small bag of split red lentils when you want a brothy soup, a thick bowl of lentils, or a vegetable filling.
8 min read
A Cabbage from Core to Leaf
Buy one green cabbage with four meals in mind, then give the outer leaves, dense center, wedges, and core the cuts that suit them.
Food Culture
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9 min read
The Logic of a Market Stall
Read a produce stall from the walking aisle to the crates underneath, and see how a morning's trade shapes what you buy.
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Choosing Apples for a Shared Pie
Buy apples with the way you plan to cut and serve the pie in mind, and give each kind of fruit a job in the filling.
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Lunch from a Stack of Tins
Pack a three-tier lunch around what each food needs from the container, and assemble a meal at the table with a minimum of fuss.
Techniques
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9 min read
Learning to Read a Hot Pan
Follow the sound, movement and color of food in a skillet, and learn which adjustments are worth making before it reaches the plate.
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A Useful Pot of Vegetable Stock
Make a clear, flexible stock with the vegetables you are likely to have, and decide what each batch is for before adding anything strong.
8 min read
An Even Slice of Onion
Work with the curve of an onion and the shape of its layers to get slices that cook or soften at much the same rate.